Te Araroa, Day 7

Todays section is a 20 km road walk from Broadwood to Mangamuka, starting at 7:30. The route, a charmingly rural road, becomes even more delightful when, just minutes into the walk, numerous wild turkeys cross the road. This encounter is one of many with Northland's amusing wildlife.

After three hours of walking, I take my first break with 6 km left, feeling fatigued. Another stop precedes the final three kilometers. Then we arrive at the very small town of Mangamuka. The town allows hikers to pitch their tents behind a community building.

Today, some community members set up a barbecue in front of the building. Hungry, I enjoy a substantial vegetable sandwich and a soft drink while the other hikers receive homemade burgers. The ambiance is enhanced by ukulele music and the townspeople singing Māori songs. At some point a woman offers "medicated" muffins with cannabis inside. I decline. I am too scared of the effects they might have on me. While the town people clear the space, we seek refuge in the shade to escape the hot and aggressive sun.

Unfortunately, there's no available toilet on-site, but a long drop toilet about 300 m along the road serves the needs. Exhausted, I fall asleep at 8 pm, appreciating the simplicity of a life spent walking and sleeping in a tent – going to sleep when it's dark and waking up with daylight. The sleep is deep and satisfying, a luxury I haven't experienced in over two years.

Briefly waking at 11 pm, I discover my tent's inner walls and quilt top are wet. Concerned, I ensure all tent doors are open for ventilation before returning to sleep.