Te Araroa, Day 9

Everything is soaked this morning, not from rain but dew. The tent and quilt are wet inside. I wake up at 4 and have breakfast by 5. I want to start with X today for the river walk in the canyon, an unfamiliar challenge for me. I feel uneasy doing it alone but don’t necessarily want to join the other hikers from last night. Before I can say anything to X, he’s already on his way. So, I pack the wet tent and quilt, and by 6:45, I’m ready to go.

The first place to pass is a Kauri dieback disease cleaning station, a mandatory step due to the threat of Kauri dieback disease in areas with Kauri trees: 

Whenever one enters or leaves an area that has Kauri trees, one has to clean and disinfect one's shoes to insure not to bring Kauri dieback disease:

• Kauri dieback disease is caused by a soil-borne pathogen called Phytophthora agathidicida (PA).
• Kauri dieback disease is both incurable and fatal in kauri trees (Agathis australis), potentially threatening the very existence of kauri forests in the region.
• The Kauri dieback pathogen infects the tree through its roots and damages the tissues that carry nutrients and water within the tree; effectively starving it to death.

(source: https://www.boprc.govt.nz/environment/pests/pest-plants/shrubs-and-trees/kauri-dieback-disease#:~:text=Kauri%20dieback%20disease%20is%20caused,kauri%20forests%20in%20the%20region.)

After the cleaning procedure there is a steep and muddy downhill walk to the canyon which is reached after about 1.3 km.

The 6 km river walk begins in the canyon, with varying depths and constantly changing currents. I crisscross the river, navigating through both deep and shallow parts. Stony river banks offer brief relief from the water. My pants legs are zipped off, and besides my shoes, socks, and bare legs, nothing else gets wet.

The deepest parts of the river I have to walk through reach just to the shorts I’m wearing.

Surprisingly, I enjoy the walk in the river inside the canyon. It feels refreshing and I love the atmosphere. 

I meet X towards the end, and we continue until reaching a wide river bank to rest and spread our wet tents and quilt/sleeping bag.

At 10:00, I resume the walk. The next few hours are strenuous, with a steep climb, including wooden stairs that seem endless. Even the non-stair parts are challenging.

Relief comes when I reach the 9 km gravel road, but it’s short-lived. The winding road causes significant pain in my right foot, likely strained from the stony river walk. I walk slowly, each step causing discomfort.

Along the way there are countless traps for possums. 

Possums are a major pest in New Zealand.

I see two possums that got trapped.

When I take a picture of the second one it suddenly looks at me.

I jump. It is still alive. I quickly walk away. It did not feel good to see that trapped and still alive animal.

I reach the campsite around 15:30, almost taking the predicted 9 hours for the 22 km. Other hikers arrive one by one or in small groups. It’s quiet, everyone tired, setting up tents, preparing dinner, or tending to foot pains.

The campsite has a cold shower, and I take advantage of it, washing myself and rinsing some clothes.

As soon as it gets dark, I head to sleep. It was a long day.