Te Araroa, Day 79

Clouds hanging low this morning. The Rintoul Mountains are in those clouds.

I first start the climb up through the forest to get back  on trail. Martin, the Swiss guy soon catches up with me and disappears in the clouds. He is walking barefoot most of the time.

At the point when I leave the forest to start the climb I put on my orange jacket, to protect me from the cold wind and wet clouds.

Coming out of the forest:

I follow the markers in the picture below. However, upon reaching the first marker, dense clouds obstruct my view of the next one. The climb is rocky, with nothing but emptiness to my left and right. Though I'm relieved not to see anything below me, I rely on those markers to navigate safely through this mountain.

I take a few steps forward, then I wait. This is how I slowly make my way up, pausing until the next marker becomes visible. It's an uncomfortable process. There's a brief relief when another person emerges from below, a French guy who swiftly disappears into the clouds, but it's reassuring to see someone. The final steps to the top are once again very scary—it's a steep climb, with a sheer drop to the left and a rocky wall to the right. The summit is narrow, offering space for only one person. I quickly locate the next marker below me, and a challenging descent begins.

To reach the second peak, there's a long descent followed by another ascent. The terrain is harsh and rocky, and I realize my shoes lack grip; they offer no traction. I proceed very slowly. Unfortunately, rain starts around 10:00, and since I'm surrounded by steep drops while climbing, I can't put on my poncho. I find a sheltered spot just before the rain intensifies. The clouds intermittently lift, offering glimpses of the surroundings, then descend again. I'm somewhat relieved when I can continue climbing upwards. It is easier with those shoes. The final stretch to the second peak at about 1739m is easier than the climb to the first peak, but once again, I navigate from marker to marker through the clouds. Only upon reaching the top does the sky clear.

---
Going down from the first Rintoul peak - towards the left. If you enlarge the picture, you see a person there:

Here the clouds opened for a moment:

There are a lot of spider webs between rocks. There form is different from what I usually see:

And then there are those:

Look at that ridge walk:

The worst part is descending to that narrow path you'll see in the next picture. It is very steep and extremely slippery.

Going down towards it to the right, I suddenly find myself hurtling headfirst. I see my hands reaching out in front of me, and my trekking poles flinging to the left, beside me. I'm not sure how I ended up airborne.

Somehow, my backpack shifts to the left, yanking me downward. I land on my left hip, getting my hands scratched by the sharp rocks and stones around me. My water filter has been leaking since, and for a couple of days, I have a bruised hip. Apart from that, I am okay.

I sit for a moment where I've landed, on the slope, then I cautiously continue my descent.

The next pictures show some of the steep descents from the second Rintoul peak. If you enlarge them, you see a pole on each and can imagine or see where the path goes. 

And a few more impressions:

I need 7.5 hours instead of 4.5 hours because my shoes have no grip at all. Realizing this, I know I have to find a way out.

The next few days will involve more steep descents, which feel too risky.

After setting up my tent near Mt. Rintoul hut, I study the map. Surprisingly, I get mobile reception here and find a message from X. He is going to find a way out from Old Man Hut. He has the same problem with his shoes. They are run down.

I look at my options. There is a trail off the mountains starting after the next hut, Tarn hut. So the plan now is to walk to Tarn hut, camp there and walk down the next day to Lower Goulter Hut and maybe further. On the map I see that I will have to do river crossings and I am not yet sure how I can get to a road to St Arnaud. But I know I will have to get down and get new shoes. Since I have reception, I send a message to B in Auckland to send another pair of shoes to St. Arnaud.

Mt. Rintoul Hut:

And my spot for tonight: